http://www.cafe-syria.com/
Quite comprehensive site about Syria. Lots of information about the country - economic, tourism, and a somewhat accurate information about Syrian government.
Statements like "In February 1999 was reelected for his 5th Presidential term with 99.98%." in an article on Hafiz al Assad make you go "hmmmm . . . ", but there is a lot of interesting information here. It's run by a Syrian expatriate in the US, and labels itself an "NGO".
http://www.syriadaily.com/
Articles on Syria and other Arab countries.
http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html
Site for travel warnings, and country information, for all counties.
Tuesday, 9 September 2003, Palmyra, Syria
100 degrees, sunny
Up early - 8 AM. Quick breakfast, showers, then off to the bus terminal for the ride to Palmyra. We arrive in Palmyra after an uneventful bus ride, and are dropped at a little tea shop in the middle of nowhere. We retreat to the shade under the palm frond outdoor area for lunch, it's already quite hot outside. We get some chicken shwarma, salad and tea to fortify us for exploring.
It's quite hot out, and we're starting to get cranky and snap at each other. I opt to retreat, not explore the ruins, and take refuge in the shade. Writing this entry from Palmyra, in the shade amidst the ruins.
Yep, they're all ruin-y and stuff, rocks tossed all over. You can come here and take pictures that look like everyone else's pictures, ride camels and get sunburned. There are no natives here, only tourists from all over the world. I hear Italian, Japanese, Spanish, English and another language I can't identify being spoken.
I've got to say, I'm not much into the super-ancient history stuff. My interest lies in the present. My brother loves this stuff - being an architect, he's all over the building and urban planning of it, so he's off in the sun, taking lots of pictures, with Diana trailing along, sharing his interest. And, it's VERY hot and dry out. Naeif is with them, for his first visit to Palmyra - despite being a native - along with our guide from the museum in Damascus - a doctor, very knowledgeable about history.
These ruins, to me, look lonely and abandoned - full of ghosts. Palmyra is a very popular tourist destination, but I prefer the vitality of Damascus or the larger cities. There's more going on, and it's more about the present day. I opt to sit in the shade and type on my computer. As I'm sitting, all the little camel guys - Shadee, Muhammed and Khaled and their camels, Kazaam, Wataam and *unnamed* white camel - begin to congregate - with their camels, and are hanging out with me now, looking at my computer and asking questions about it. I spend about an hour chatting with the engaging little camel guys, and insure that we'll get a great ride on the camels when Jeremy, Diana and Naeif return.
Aleppo is what I'm waiting for. I'm really excited to see this city - it will be the first major city besides Damascus that I'll have spent any time checking out.
In Palmyra, we run in to "The Doctor" - the tour guide we met at the museum in Damascus. We now suspect he's stalking us, and begin to fabricate hilarious scenarios of subsequent meetings - everywhere. At any rate, the Doctor is very knowledgeable and takes us up one of the hills to get a sense of the entire layout of Palmyra. We sip warm soda and survey the view. Next, it's time to walk around the temple. While we're there, the souvenir sellers descend on us and the rest of the people who are exploring. We cave and each of us buys a black and white keffiyah, which we immediately put on and wear around. We're in full-on tourist mode now, having fun and getting along again.
After exploring the last corners of Palmyra, we head back to tea shop, all tricked out in keffiyahs, and receive strange looks from the locals gathered around the tea shop. Seems this tea shop is also the main bus stop for Palmyra. We're ready to go on to Aleppo, as Palmyra is fairly disappointing outside the historical area. We have tea and ponder our options. One is another bus ride, and the other is an independent taxi driver - who is hovering nearby, hoping to get us to employ him. We're getting really cheap now, and opt to save about US$2 each, and go for the taxi ride. Besides, it's more of an adventure, right?
What ensues is an utterly scary taxi to Homs, in a ancient Mercedes. Well, by ancient, I mean about forty years old and not aging all that well. Before taking off, we have to visit the taxi drivers home - to tell the wife where we're going. The drivers small boys try to pile into the car to go for a ride too, but we fend them off. Then, we're off. Diana checks out the Bedouin tents we see along the way, and formulates a plan for tea and hospitality from them if this old heap breaks down. Myself, having realized the power of "insha'allah!" long ago, am confident that we'll make it to Homs to catch the bus to Aleppo. Yes, we've still got another leg of this trip.
We arrive in Homs, and after a circuitous route - the Mercedes is too old to drive thru the metro area, and must take another, longer route into the city. We find . . . nothing, just a crappy Syrian bus station entirely in Arabic. We have a quick sandwich use the surprisingly clean hammam, and are back on the bus to Aleppo. By now, we're really weary of riding buses, and anxious to get to Aleppo where we'll spend a few days before leaving again for Lattakia. Finally, we arrive in Aleppo - and notice a lot more mosques than in Damascus. It looks like an interesting city, very busy and congested. The bus stops, and we begin the chaotic exit from the bus, everyone grabbing at their luggage at once. Quickly, a cab is on top of us, we swoop inside and speed off.
We wind thru the TINY roads in souk, a scrapy wall cab ride, and notice lots of garbage on the road. After we stop outside the hotel, Jeremy notices a few jumbo size cockroaches traversing the wall above a door, occasionally slipping into a crack - probably into the house. We find out later, the reason for all the garbage on the road - seems the hotel is the only business that actually pays for removal, so the other residents sort of add their garbage to the hotel's garbage as well. We're right in the midst of the souk - it'll be great for exploring tomorrow.
Finally, we arrive at the Dar al Halabia - and it's gorgeous!! Naeif handles the negotiations and comes back to report the plan. Predictably, the taxi driver has another suggestion for a hotel - one he no doubt gets a tip for recommending. By this time, I've had it with plans changing, and ask "what do we want to do, drive all over Aleppo looking for another hotel which will likely be the same price?". We all agree, as we're pretty tired.
After we get our rooms and unpack, it's time to drink beers and arak in the courtyard. Ah yes, this hotel is great - we begin to wind down from our epic cab ride, enjoy the evening and get slightly tipsy while gazing at the stars. Bliss!
http://www.halabia-tours.com/
Is the URL of the tour company associated with the Dar al Halabia Hotel in Aleppo, which was utterly gorgeous.
Monday, 8 September 2003, Bosra and Suweida, Syria
80 degrees, sunny
I wake up around 6 AM, very sick, will spare details here. Today is the day we were supposed to leave for Palmyra, Aleppo and Lattakia, but that will have to be postponed sadly, as I'm not feeling well at all. Naeif saves the day by suggesting a day trip to Bosra and Suweida to see the ruins there. I'm not big on viewing ruins, but I agree to this since I'm sure I can find places to escape and sit and rest.
We get a microbus driver - who turns out to be an utterly charming guy - and we enjoy this day a lot. Bosra is the scene of an old castle and ampitheater - a festival and concert is taking place tonight - and we spend a few hours walking around. There's a lot to see of the ruins, which Jeremy and Diana are very into. I'm more a "walk around the city" type, preferring the present day to ancient cultures.
After a day of walking around, we stop at a roadside restaurant - al Fisral, for a Syrian style dinner. Kabobs, salads and Arak (which I manage to have a small glass of, as I'm feeling better now.) An enjoyable dinner, then we're back on the road, home to Damascus.